![]() ![]() “For Virgil, things were never set in stone: he saw contradictions and change as something natural and very human,” Aronowsky Cronberg says. In accordance with the wishes of Shannon Abloh, Virgil’s wife, Aronowsky Cronberg plans to go ahead with the book “so that his thinking is not reduced to soundbites and pull quotes”. “I expect Louis Vuitton will be spoilt for choice: they have an outstanding viewpoint on all of the talent out there, given their yearly creative competition plus the talent they have in the group,” says Bernstein analyst Luca Solca. But, LVMH will clearly put all the care into taking the best decision for the long-term development of the brand and has no financial constraints to hurry up.”ĭemand will be high. As Mario Ortelli, managing director of Ortelli & Co says: “Virgil Abloh’s succession is not an easy decision in terms of timing, in terms of person. Some argue they risk losing Abloh’s momentum if it’s too late others say Louis Vuitton can afford to take its time and entrust the collection to the studio in the meantime. The timing of an announcement will be carefully considered, with many industry observers expecting an extended wait, as a mark of respect. Some of Abloh's collections, left to right: Autumn/Winter 2019, Autumn/Winter 2020, Spring/Summer 2021. His creative community also included stylist Ben Perreira, Vogue Australia fashion director and Wardrobe NYC founder Christine Centenera and Matthew Williams, the creative director of Givenchy who created the Been Trill collective with Abloh, Heron Preston, Justin Saunders and YWP. His creative circle included many musicians, including Kanye West, who he called his “greatest mentor”, Lauryn Hill, Drake and Tyler, the Creator, who all attended his funeral. And now I think of it as the one legacy I want to leave as a Black designer.” In an interview published last November with Anja Aronowsky Cronberg for the 10th issue of academic fashion journal Vestoj, Abloh told the title’s editor-in-chief: “When I first met you, when I was first becoming known in fashion, I didn’t want to talk about it, you know that. Nicolas Ghesquière has been Louis Vuitton’s artistic director for womenswear since 2013 - his contract was renewed in 2018. In LVMH’s third quarter earnings statement last October, the group said Louis Vuitton is performing “remarkably well, driven by constant innovation and by the quality of its products”. His collaboration with Louis Vuitton and Nike on Air Force 1 sneakers is also on watch lists for when it drops sometime this year. ![]() While men’s ready-to-wear is a small part of Louis Vuitton’s total revenue, Abloh stepped up the performance of the category and created a number of hits, including eyewear (such as his redesign of the Millionaires shades), bags (think the Keepall bag in iridescent hues and men’s mini soft trunks), harnesses (sported by Timothée Chalamet on the red carpet) and varsity jackets, as well as delivered blockbuster shows with a halo effect on the house. Louis Vuitton represents around 58 per cent of the division’s sales and 80 per cent of the profits. Its fashion and leather goods division surged 57 per cent in the first nine months of 2021. LVMH is to report its annual earnings on 27 January. ![]() That’s 27 per cent of total LVMH sales and 53 per cent of its EBIT, also according to HSBC analyst estimates. However, Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury house, is by far the biggest, generating revenue of €16.7 billion in 2021, according to HSBC analyst estimates. ![]() LVMH does not break down financial figures for individual brands. Louis Vuitton men’s: Stepped-up contribution LVMH appointed Anderson as Loewe creative director in 2013. “If we take the hypothesis of the internal promotion, Jonathan Anderson is the most logical choice because of his talent, experience and because of the timing,” says Jean Vigneron, associate partner at Paris recruitment firm Agent Secret. “Will they choose continuity or disruption?”Īlso front of mind for LVMH is the experience required to oversee a megabrand. “People will look at the symbol behind the profile of the new hire,” says Benjamin Simmenauer, professor at Institut Francais de la Mode. The legacy of Virgil Abloh is front of mind. ![]()
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